“I came to Hillside for the Syrah…”
This is one of the first things Chef Evan told me when he came to Hillside in 2021. “I had it at a tasting at Fairmont Hot Springs years ago and couldn’t get it out of my mind. We even served it at a recent family reunion.”
This predicted a great relationship ahead until…
Me: “What’s your favorite white?”
Chef: “Chardonnay”
Me: …
Chef: …
Me: “Well that’s unfortunate. We don’t make any chardonnay.”
Chef: “That is unfortunate.”
Imagine my excitement when, summer of 2023, I was offered a contract for a young block of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.
The Windy Shores Sauvignon Blanc would be matched up with another block from the Dhaliwal vineyard, which has gone into our Heritage Sauvignon Blanc since 2019, and the Chardonnay would, well, please Chef. Truth be told, it would please me as well. In my former position as a winemaker for Mission Hill, I had worked with a lot of Chardonnay. We’re talking tons, quite literally, grown from vineyards spanning the US border in Osoyoos, to Paradise Ranch, at the northern tip of the Naramata Bench. I was no stranger to Chardonnay.
When harvest time came, however, we realized that the crop was so small that the two had to go into the press together. Our press holds 5 tons, and its design is such that it must have a minimum of 3 tons to safely and effectively press white grapes. Born of necessity, the base of our blend was determined.
In 2022 we purchased a terracotta jarre—a 1200 liter egg-shaped sandstone tank. We finished the Viognier in neutral French oak barrels, stainless steel, and the jarre. The shape of the jarre and of course, thermodynamics, cause the liquid to be in constant motion, which serves to stir the lees, lending a creaminess to the palate. We were able to compare the effect of the three vessel types on the wine and then blend to create layered texture in the final wine.
In 2023 we outfitted the jarre with a cooling apparatus which allowed us to use it for fermentation and decided the Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend was the perfect candidate. Unable to contain my excitement, I brought frequent samples of the fermenting juice to Chef, who didn’t mind.
When we started talking about a collaboration between Chef and Winemaker, the blend immediately sprang to mind. Chef’s favorite white variety, one of my favorite white varieties (seriously!? they’re all my favorite, like my children). Then in late January, shortly after the devastating freeze that spelled no harvest for 2024, we were offered a tank of 2023 Semillon from Tightrope Winery. Wanting to stretch our white wine inventory, we tasted a sample and set to creating a blend that could use it.
Chef and I both love the final blend. I love the complex aromatics and Chef loves the flavour profile that stirs his creative soul.
Sauvignon Blanc | 45% | fresh grass, golden plum
Semillon | 38% | figs, figs, figs.
Chardonnay | 17% | tree fruit, citrus and tropicals
Chef’s Whites will be released on June 18th at our All About the Bench dinner, a collaboration of chefs from the Naramata Bench, who each bring a wine and create a dish to pair with that wine. We will celebrate all our collaborators: our Bistro suppliers of local proteins and vegetables, our grape growers and neighboring winemakers, and our fellow chefs.
